What Would Great-Grandma Eat?
What is “good food”? This week in the Chronicle Review, Aaron Bobrow-Strain looks at the mid-20th-century politics of white bread.
“Knowing where your food comes from” is a foodie slogan today – but when bakery hygiene became a plank in anti-immigration propaganda, it was a public-relations coup for industrial food.
“I wrote a book about ultrasoft, mass-produced sliced white bread because I wanted to understand America’s fraught relationship to industrial eating in all its contradictory ferment….what I found was that America’s love-hate relationship with this fluffy stuff has been wrapped up in a series of much larger questions about who we are as a nation, how we understand progress, how we envision America’s role in the world, what we believe counts as responsible citizenship, and, ultimately, how we relate to each other across our differences,”
The article is What Would Great-Grandma Eat?.
The book he’s describing is White Bread: A Social History of the Store-Bought Loaf